All three systems give you long, strong nails, but they are worked in different ways. The choice depends less on the result and more on what you find comfortable to work with.
Gel system
A thick gel that cures only in the lamp. Until you put it in the lamp, you have as much time as you need – this is the biggest advantage for beginners.
- Pros: almost odourless, unlimited working time, natural look, easy to buff and polish
- Cons: harder to remove, you can't work without a lamp, a thinner layer than acrylic
- Best for: beginners and anyone who values a natural look
Acrylic system
The powder is mixed with a liquid (monomer) and air-cures. No lamp is needed.
- Pros: very strong, cures quickly, suits long and complex shapes, easier to soak off
- Cons: strong odour, needs good ventilation, you have to work fast – the product sets by itself
- Best for: experienced nail technicians and lovers of long nails
PolyGel
A hybrid: the consistency of a gel with the strength of acrylic. It cures in the lamp like a gel, but is shaped like acrylic – with a spatula and slip solution.
- Pros: odourless, doesn't set by itself, lighter than acrylic, comfortable to shape
- Cons: more expensive, takes time to get used to the technique
- Best for: those who want acrylic strength without the smell
Tips or forms
Whichever system you choose, there are two ways to build length. Tips are glued to the free edge of the nail – quicker and simpler, suitable for beginners. Upper forms give you more precise control over the nail shape and apex, but require more skill. Tips and colour palettes.
What to choose when starting out
A gel system with tips. It is the most forgiving of mistakes: the product doesn't cure until you want it to, and the tips ensure a uniform shape. Once you've mastered the basics, you can move on to forms or try PolyGel.
Aftercare
Extensions need to be infilled every 3–4 weeks – not for the sake of looks, but for safety: as the nail grows out, the centre of gravity shifts and the risk of breakage increases. Extensions should be removed by a nail technician or with an e-file, because gel is practically impossible to soak off.