A gel polish allergy most often shows up as an itchy, red and swollen rash around the nails and on the fingertips, sometimes with the nail lifting from the nail bed or a rash on the eyelids, face and neck. It is allergic contact dermatitis to (meth)acrylates, of which the most common allergen is HEMA. It develops when uncured product gets onto the skin. If you notice such symptoms, stop all contact with the product and see a doctor – a dermatologist or an allergist.
This article is for information only and does not replace a consultation with a doctor.
How a gel polish allergy shows up
- Around the nails and on the fingertips: itching, redness, swelling, tiny blisters, and later dry, cracking skin.
- Nails: the nail plate may lift from the nail bed, and the area under the nail may become painful.
- Away from the nails: the British Association of Dermatologists states that a rash can appear anywhere you touch with your nails, for example on the eyelids, face or neck. That is why a gel polish allergy is sometimes not linked to the manicure.
- Very rarely, breathing difficulties occur – in that case urgent medical help is essential.
An allergic reaction often does not appear immediately, but after several hours or days. It can also develop after a long time, even when the nails were done with the same products without any problems. Irritation, eczema or a fungal infection can look similar, so the cause should be determined by a doctor.
Why it happens: HEMA, incomplete curing, skin contact
Gel polish, builder gel and acrylic are mixtures of (meth)acrylate monomers that turn into a hard polymer under the lamp. While the product is uncured, the monomers can penetrate the skin and sensitise it. The main causes are:
- HEMA (2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate) is the (meth)acrylate that most often causes allergy. Since 2021, nail products containing HEMA and di-HEMA trimethylhexyl dicarbamate have been permitted in the EU for professional use only and must carry a warning that they may cause an allergic reaction (Regulation (EU) 2020/1682).
- Incomplete curing. A lamp that is unsuitable for the product, too short a curing time, too thick a layer, a finger not in the centre of the lamp or fading diodes. We explained how to spot a faulty lamp in the article “UV/LED nail lamp not working or not curing”.
- Skin contact. Gel flooding onto the cuticles, a sticky layer touched with the fingers, a cleanser wipe, a dirty bottle neck or brush handle.
Who is most at risk: technicians or clients
Nail technicians come into contact with uncured products every day: through brushes, wipes, bottles and the fingers they use to hold the client's hand. According to the British Association of Dermatologists, nail technicians made up the majority of occupational (meth)acrylate allergy cases.
Clients and people doing their nails at home are at risk when the product gets onto the skin or is not cured completely. Dermatologists especially warn about home kits: insufficiently cured product increases the risk of allergy.
What to do if you notice symptoms
- Stop gel polish treatments and other acrylate products until you have spoken to a doctor.
- Remove the coating carefully, without damaging the already irritated skin. It is best to entrust this to a technician who will work wearing gloves. You can find out how to do it safely in the article “How to remove gel polish safely”.
- Write down the names of the products used and, if possible, their ingredients – this will help the doctor.
- See your family doctor, a dermatologist or an allergist. Do not treat yourself.
- If your face or lips swell or you have difficulty breathing, call emergency services immediately on the general emergency number 112.
How to reduce the risk: technique, lamp, gloves
- The product must not touch the skin. Leave a small gap by the cuticles and wipe off any gel that has run before curing.
- The right lamp and full curing. Use the lamp type and curing time recommended by the product manufacturer, and apply thin layers. You can find a choice of lamps in the UV/LED lamps category.
- Wipe off the sticky layer carefully: without touching the skin, and throw the used wipe away straight away.
- Gloves for technicians. The British Association of Dermatologists points out that (meth)acrylates penetrate many gloves, so it recommends changing nitrile gloves every 30 minutes and taking them off so that a bare hand never touches the outer side of the glove.
- A clean workstation. Bottle necks, caps and brush handles must not be covered in product.
- At home, choose products with a clear ingredient list and instructions for use, and stick to the stated curing time.
What to ask your technician if you are a client. Whether the lamp and products are from the same manufacturer, how long each layer is cured for, and whether the gel gets onto the cuticles. If your fingers tingle or itch after the treatment, tell your technician straight away – next time she can change the product or the technique, and you can consult a doctor in good time.
Hypoallergenic and HEMA-free products: what difference they make
“HEMA-free” means the product does not contain one of the most common allergens. This reduces the risk of becoming sensitised to HEMA specifically, but the product is still made up of other (meth)acrylates. So the word “hypoallergenic” does not mean the product cannot cause an allergy, and uncured product on the skin must still be avoided.
In our range, items marked HEMA-free include the “Strong Latte Base” base coat and the “Primer” adhesion promoter 7 ml, which is free of HEMA and TPO. How to read the ingredient list and what to look for when choosing is described in the article “Gel polishes without TPO and HEMA”.
If an allergy has already been confirmed, whether and which products can be used must be decided by a doctor based on test results. A HEMA-free product is not in itself a safe solution for someone who is already sensitised.
When to see an allergist
- The rash, itching or swelling returns after every manicure or infill.
- The symptoms do not go away within a few days or spread to other parts of the body.
- The nail starts to lift from the nail bed and there is pain.
- You are planning dental treatment or surgery and have previously had a suspected reaction. Dermatologists stress that (meth)acrylates are also used in dentistry, orthopaedics and medical adhesives, so it is important to tell your doctors about the allergy.
An allergy to (meth)acrylates can be confirmed with skin patch tests. They are prescribed and interpreted by a doctor.
Frequently asked questions
How does a gel polish allergy show up?
As an itchy, red, swollen rash around the nails and on the fingertips, sometimes with blisters, the nail lifting from the nail bed, or a rash on the eyelids, face and neck. The reaction often appears after several hours or days.
Does a gel polish allergy go away?
Once contact with the allergen stops, the symptoms usually settle, but the sensitisation most often remains for a long time, often for life. If you come into contact with the same allergen again, the reaction may return.
Can I carry on having gel polish if I have an allergy?
This is decided by a doctor based on test results. It is usually recommended to avoid products containing the (meth)acrylates that caused the allergy, and alternatives, such as regular polish that does not cure under a lamp, are worth discussing with your doctor.
What is HEMA and why does it cause an allergy?
HEMA (2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate) is a substance from the acrylate group used in gel polishes and gel systems. When uncured, it can penetrate the skin and cause sensitisation, which is why the EU permits nail products containing HEMA only for professional use, with a warning about a possible allergic reaction.