Gel polish lasts two to three weeks only when every layer is done correctly. The polish usually gets the blame, but the real cause is more often poor prep or a layer that is too thick. Below is the whole process, with no details skipped.
1. Nail prep
Remove any leftover old product, push back the cuticles and shape the free edge. Lightly go over the nail surface with a buffer – the aim is not to file the nail down, but to remove its natural shine. An over-filed nail becomes thin and starts to break.
The cuticles must be pushed back cleanly. If the base coat gets onto the cuticle, the polish will start to lift from day one – not because the polish is bad, but because it is not bonded to the nail.
2. Dehydrating and priming
Wipe the nail with a nail dehydrator. Even a clean nail has natural oils that stop the base coat from adhering. If your clients' nails tend to sweat, or the polish has lifted before, also use a primer (primer or ultrabond) on the free edge of the nail only, avoiding the skin. Let it dry for about 30 seconds.
3. Base coat
Apply the base coat thinly. This is the most common mistake – a thick layer of base coat does not cure all the way through and stays soft inside, and the polish then peels off that foundation in one piece. Seal the free edge by running the brush along the tip of the nail. Find base and top coats here.
4. Colour
Two thin coats are always better than one thick one. The first coat may look sheer – that is exactly how it should be. Cure each layer in the lamp separately, and thumbs often need curing apart from the other fingers because they sit at a different angle in the lamp.
Don't forget to seal the tip after the colour coat as well. Chipping most often starts at the tip. Browse our gel polish range.
5. Top coat
Apply the top coat slightly thicker than the colour, but don't overdo it – it should wrap the nail evenly and seal the tip once more. If you use a top coat with a tacky layer, wipe it off with a cleanser after curing. Top coats with effects.
Curing time
Curing time depends on the lamp, not the polish. In an LED lamp it is usually 30–60 seconds, in a UV lamp up to two minutes. If the lamp is weak or its bulbs are worn out, the polish will not cure fully even with a longer cure. UV/LED lamps.
Most common mistakes
- Layer too thick – it doesn't cure all the way through, and the polish wrinkles and peels off.
- Polish on the cuticle – the polish lifts after just a few days.
- Unsealed tip – chipping starts at the end of the nail.
- Oils not removed – the base coat doesn't bond to the nail.
- Worn-out lamp – it seems to work, but no longer delivers the power it needs to.
If you follow this routine, your manicure will last two to three weeks without problems. And if the polish still chips, our separate article on chipping will help you find the cause.