Choosing bits seems confusing until you understand the logic: the material determines what the bit is for, the shape determines where you use it, and the coloured band tells you how coarse it is.
Material
Carbide
Has milled flutes that remove material in layers. Designed for artificial enhancements – gel, acrylic and gel polish. Works fast and barely heats up. Not suitable for the natural nail.
Diamond
Coated with diamond grit that sands the surface. Designed for cuticles, the sidewalls and fine work at the base of the nail. Gentler and safer around the skin.
Ceramic
A middle ground: removes product like carbide, but heats up less and is quieter. Easy to clean and resistant to disinfection, which makes them popular in salons.
Coloured band
The band on the bit's shank indicates grit – a standard that applies regardless of the manufacturer:
- Black – extra coarse, for rapid material removal
- Green – coarse
- Blue – medium, the most versatile
- Red – fine, for work close to the skin
- Yellow and white – extra fine, for polishing and finishing
For beginners, the safest place to start is red and blue – they make it harder to damage the nail.
Shapes
- Cylinder – levelling the nail surface, removing product
- Cone – work under the cuticle and in the sidewalls
- Ball – cuticle removal, pterygium
- Flame – versatile, suitable for both cuticles and the surface
- Inverted cone – shaping the free edge
- Cylinder with a rounded tip – safer for beginners, does not score the nail
What speed you need
For product removal – 15,000–25,000 rpm. For cuticles – 8,000–12,000. For polishing – up to 6,000. Higher speed does not mean better work: it raises the temperature and increases the risk of damaging the nail. E-files.
Care
After every client, the bit is cleaned with a brush, washed and disinfected. Carbide bits clog with product dust – a clogged bit stops cutting and starts to heat up, so it seems to have "worn out" when it simply needs cleaning.
Replace diamond bits when the grit wears down – such a bit no longer sands but rubs and heats the nail.
