An acid pedicure is a foot-care treatment in which hardened skin on the heels and feet is first softened with an acid product and only then removed with a foot file or rasp. The acids most commonly used are AHAs (fruit acids), sometimes combined with salicylic acid and urea. The acid loosens the bonds between dead skin cells, so the thickened layer comes away more easily, with less rubbing and no cutting.
What is an acid pedicure and how do the acids work
The skin on the heels and soles thickens because of constant pressure and friction. The top horny layer is made up of dead cells held together by cell junctions.
- AHA acids (for example lactic and glycolic) and BHA (salicylic) acid loosen these junctions, so the horny layer softens and separates more easily.
- Urea (carbamide) moisturises and softens hardened skin, which is why it is often added to foot products alongside acids.
It is important to understand that the acid does not "remove" the skin by itself. It only prepares it, and the softened skin is then removed mechanically, with a foot file, a spatula or an e-file. For this reason the treatment is usually gentler than mechanical exfoliation alone.
Who it suits and who it does not
Suitable for dry, rough, hardened skin on the heels and feet, and for calluses, when you want to remove thickened skin without cutting.
Not suitable, or consult a specialist first:
- when the feet have wounds, deep cracks, or irritated or inflamed skin;
- when there are signs of a fungal infection, warts or other skin conditions;
- if you have diabetes or circulation problems, discuss foot treatments with your doctor or podiatrist first;
- products containing salicylic acid come with additional restrictions from the manufacturer. For example, the "Farmona Podologic Acid" foot-bath salt states that it should not be used by children, pregnant women, or people with diabetes, eczema, fungal conditions or an allergy to salicylates.
Always read the contraindications of the specific product before the treatment. If you are unsure about the condition of the feet, it is better to skip the treatment and advise the client to see a podiatrist or doctor.
Products: acid gel, exfoliator, foot file
- Acid product. For professional use, for example Farmona Podologic Acid foot acid gel – according to the manufacturer, its fruit acid concentration reaches 44%. A gentler option is the Apis spray with 10% lactic acid and 30% urea, which the manufacturer says to leave on the skin for 3–5 minutes.
- Foot file. For removing softened skin, a metal foot rasp with replaceable abrasive pads works well – the pads can be changed for every client.
- Pedicure discs. If you combine the treatment with an e-file pedicure, disposable pedicure discs come in handy.
- Extras: disposable gloves, cling film to wrap the feet (if the product instructions require it), disposable wipes.
- Cream after the treatment – moisturising or regenerating, for example the Apis regenerating balm for dry and cracked heels.
How to choose a product. Acid foot products come as a gel, spray, cream or bath salt. A gel is convenient when you need to cover only the thickened areas precisely, a spray is good for treating a larger area quickly, and salt is used for a foot bath before the treatment. When choosing, look at three things: which acids and what concentration are stated, whether the product is intended for professional use, and which contraindications are given on the label. If no concentration is stated, follow only the time and method specified by the manufacturer.
The treatment step by step
This is the general routine in a professional salon. Always take timings, amounts and neutralisation from the instructions of the specific product.
- Assess the feet. If you see wounds, deep cracks, or signs of fungus or warts, do not use the acid and advise the client to see a podiatrist or doctor.
- Clean and dry the skin. Many acid products are applied to dry, unsoaked skin, so a foot bath beforehand is often unnecessary – the manufacturer will state this.
- Put on gloves and apply the product only to the hardened areas. Avoid the spaces between the toes and thin skin.
- Wait for the time specified by the manufacturer. If the instructions require it, wrap the feet in film. Ask the client how it feels: strong burning or pain is a sign to rinse the product off immediately.
- Remove the softened skin with a file or spatula, without rushing. Do not go for "down to pink" skin – over-exfoliated skin becomes sensitive.
- Rinse off or neutralise the product residue as the manufacturer instructs.
- Finish: smooth the surface with a finer file, tidy the nails and apply cream.
Clean and disinfect reusable tools after every client, and sterilise those that can break the skin.
Acid pedicure at home: safety rules
Professional acid concentrates are intended for specialists, so at home it is better to choose products made for home care: urea creams, gentle scrubs and softening foot soaks. If you do use an acid product:
- test it first on a small patch of skin;
- apply it only to hardened areas and never to wounds or cracks;
- do not leave it on longer than stated – a longer time does not mean a better result;
- wear gloves, protect your eyes and wash your hands after the treatment;
- if the skin turns red, stings or starts to hurt, rinse the product off and do not use it again;
- if you have diabetes or circulation problems, leave foot care to a podiatrist.
Acid or e-file pedicure – which to choose
| Acid | E-file | |
|---|---|---|
| How the skin is removed | Softened with acid, removed with a foot file | Buffed with an e-file using discs or bits |
| When it suits | Moderate thickening, dry rough skin | Heavy thickening, care of the nails and side walls |
| What you need | Product, foot file, gloves | E-file, discs and bits, dust collector |
| What to consider | Contraindications and acid contact time | Skill, rpm, overheating the skin |
In practice the two methods are often combined: the acid softens the thickened skin, and the disc removes and smooths it precisely. We described how to work with the e-file in the article "E-file pedicure with pedicure discs".
Foot care after the treatment
- Apply a moisturising or softening foot cream every day, especially on the heels.
- In the first few days avoid hot baths and the swimming pool if the skin is sensitive.
- Choose comfortable footwear: constant friction and pressure are the main cause of thickened skin.
- Repeat the treatment when the skin thickens again, not on a strict schedule. Skin that is removed too aggressively often grows back faster.
- If cracks bleed, hurt or do not heal, see a doctor or podiatrist.
Frequently asked questions
What is an acid pedicure?
It is a pedicure in which hardened skin on the feet is softened with a product containing acids (AHA, BHA) and urea, and then removed with a foot file or spatula. The skin is removed more gently, without cutting.
Can I do an acid pedicure at home?
Professional concentrates are intended for specialists. At home it is safer to use products made for home care and to follow the instructions strictly. If you have diabetes, wounds or cracks, leave the treatment to a podiatrist.
How does an acid pedicure differ from an e-file pedicure?
An acid pedicure first softens the skin chemically, while an e-file pedicure buffs it away with an e-file. Acid is usually gentler for moderate thickening, while the e-file is more precise for thick skin. They are often combined.
How often should I have an acid pedicure?
When the skin thickens again – it is very individual. Removing skin too often and too aggressively can make it grow back faster, so keep the skin cared for with creams between treatments.